At iftar, blurring the lines between ‘us’ and ‘them’
The adage “you are what you eat” reveals the intimate connection between our diet and identity. The act of sharing meals transcends the idea of food as survival, fostering a sense of security and camaraderie among individuals. Yet, the growing trend of dining out, associated with status and sophistication, has eclipsed the intimate act of sharing meals. This transformation is not merely a change in dining preferences but signifies a deeper cultural shift. In today’s socio-political landscape, food has emerged as a potent symbol of identity, forging distinctions between “us” and “them”. Different kinds of regional foods and food markets are also on the rise, such as Odia food, Naga food etc. Many chefs (including me) are turning to evocative culinary experiences to revive the flavours and experiences of yesteryears that speak to personal histories and collective memories. But there is also beauty in the act of breaking bread with strangers. And so, many of the iftar heritage walks that I lead through Old Delhi during Ramazan are meant to blur the lines between these …