Keen to explore Sienna Cafe’s ‘bajaar to table’ process more closely, I’m following chefs Auroni and Avi on their routine early morning market visit. It is steps away from the restaurant. After all, every self-respecting Bengali kitchen sources its ingredients from the parar bajaar or neighbourhood market. Each one is similar in terms of seasonal offerings but also quite distinct, as defined by its resident vendors. “How many bajaars can you walk into where the vendors themselves will explain the distinction between the various begun and lebu and the best ways to cook them? We just passed three different varieties of sheem (lablab hyacinth beans) from a single stall,” Auroni reflects. “And absolutely no bajaar anywhere in the country has three dozen varieties of fish on any given day — be it Mapusa in Goa, Crawford in Bombay or INA New Delhi. Those markets function as supply chains — you go there for ingredients that aren’t available in your local neighbourhood market. Here, we’re spoiled for choice.”  The bajaar to table concept isn’t at all …