As one makes their way to the Nizamuddin dargah, the 14th-century shrine built to commemorate Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, a striking structure comes into view towards the right. Marked by marble pillars and exquisite lattice work, this is Chausath Khamba: literally translated to 64 pillars.
Built in 1623-24 AD, the structure houses the tomb of Mirza Aziz Koka, foster brother of Mughal Emperor Akbar.
As per the official conservation document by Aga Khan Trust for Culture: “The tomb enclosure is entered through a lofty arched gateway and has a large sunken forecourt. The mausoleum is unique on account of it being built entirely of marble, with 25 marble domes supporting the flat roof of the structure. The plan for Chausath Khamba could have been inspired from the wooden garden pavilions from Persia — such as the Chihil Sutun, and in turn, the Chausath Khamba seems to have inspired the architectural design for Emperor Shahjahan’s Diwan-i-Aam, Hall of Audience.”
It further states: “Each facade of the square structure has five marble arches inset with marble jalis or lattice screens, and a doorway in the central arch providing access to the tomb. The column capitals are intricately carved with simple yet striking pendentives bridging the square floor plan to the circular dome above.”
Notably, in 2011-2014, the Aga Khan Trust for Culture along with the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) undertook the conservation of Chausath Khamba. The project was co-funded by the Federal Republic of Germany.
According to author and historian Sam Dalrymple, the structure is a piece of Gujarat in Delhi. In a post on Instagram, he wrote: “It is basically a piece of Ahmedabad in the heart of Delhi… the Urs Mahal, where festivals would be held during the anniversary of Nizamuddin’s death. Once again, it is in a purely Gujarati style… Compare the tomb to Ahmedabad’s Sarkhej Roza, and you’ll see what I mean.”
Dalrymple said it was fascinating how regional architecture travelled across India centuries ago. “We often think of globalisation as a modern thing but nothing could be further from the truth,” he said in the post.
Speaking to The Indian Express, historian Sohail Hashmi said, “The corner pillars of the structure… the four pillars together all on the outer side are double (joined together) which is why this structure becomes 64 pillars… Pre-Independence, the ASI carried out repairs. Those days, cement was used and that caused damage to the entire structure… all the stones of the domes were dismantled and many attempts were made to restore the structure… This particular monument was in a bad condition before the Aga Khan Trust took up its conservation.”
The structure also finds mention in Sir Gordon Risley Hearn’s book The Seven Cities of Delhi. “The mausoleum was erected by his (Mirza Aziz Koka’s) son, Mirza Aziz Kokaltash, governor of several provinces under Akbar… Chausath Khamba… said to be as old as the shrine itself…,” it read.