Joanna Lobo finds that in Sindhudurg, chef Dilip Bavkar of Coco Shambhala, makes an aromatic cashew apple curry that is unique to the Malvan region.

On a sunny and humid afternoon in Sindhudurg, chef Dilip Bavkar dons his apron and hat as he prepares for a cooking demonstration. His audience is sneaking bits of raw mango and cashew apple that is part of his mise en place. He is demonstrating an utterly delicious recipe, but one I have never tasted before, featuring the region’s most popular summer fruit in a curry — cashew apple.

Sindhudurg is a region abundant with cashew and mango orchards, much like Goa. But, unlike Goa, the cashew apple isn’t used much, often discarded or used as manure. But at Coco Shambhala near Bhogwe Beach, the chefs use the cashew apple in a typical Malvani curry. The star of this curry is the Malvani masala, an aromatic spice mix unique to the region. 

Bavkar combines this spice mix with coconut to make a bright orange base masala, that he then cooks with the spongy cashew apple. “This curry masala works great with prawns and even vegetables,” he explains. The curry takes time, simmering slowly as it comes together; a distinctive, delicious aroma filling the air. The cashew apple becomes soft, and loses its sponginess. It is now ready to serve. The curry is placed on the table as part of a larger Malvani feast, complete with local rice, bhakri, fried fish, a prawn and raw mango curry. The food is so good, everyone falls quiet.