The focus is on being local and seasonal. The best example of this is their small plates called Innikku meaning today in Tamil, which features an ingredient that’s only available for a short duration, sometimes just a handful of days. From making their ketchup to sausages almost everything on a plate served in their restaurant is made by hand and with immense attention to detail.

If the ingredient is not grown or produced on the farm, it’s carefully sourced — the seafood that comes from local fishermen, and the silken tofu that’s made by a Chennai-based Japanese family. Over years of travel, the couple have met and befriended like-minded producers, many of whom have now become friends and suppliers. From Leh, Ladakh they get sun-dried tomatoes, Chamomile tea and dried apricots. Tart sea buckthorn berries come from the remote Spiti Valley as does apricot oil, peppermint and barley. A self-professed chilli fiend, Shalini personally oversees the making of a 21-day fermented bhut jolokia hot sauce. Vegetables and herbs that don’t grow in the coastal belt are sourced from farms in the Nilgiris.

Building a Network

The Farm’s contribution to the food scene might not have won awards or made it to must-do lists but their contribution to expanding palates is significant. Arina Suchde, chef and author of The No Waste Kitchen Cookbook says, “They are very different from others in the conventional Chennai food scene. Some of the dishes they have on the menu would have been a first for the city. They pay tribute to so many different cuisines by taking ideas from friends and family, or drawing inspiration from their travels.” Suchde reached out to Shalini and helped them do an audit of their kitchen and beverage counter.

Like all businesses, activities on the farm came to a screeching halt during the pandemic. Arul and Shalini used this long pause to rethink their menu while keeping their love for food and exploration alive. This recalibration is most evident in the posts and stories shared on their Instagram page: where they talk about the chemical processes and reactions that result in a particular taste, colour or texture; or how to use available local ingredients in new ways. Social media also helps them connect with people.

Maya Ganesh, who supplies nasturtium flowers in ice boxes by overnight bus from Kodaikanal, helped The Farm set up a commercial waste management system. “They are very quality conscious and environmentally conscious, and like to close the loop, working with whatever waste is generated in the system and ensuring it goes back as a resource. They are very resourceful with whatever they have in their ecosystem,” she adds. 

Many of their customers are ardent fans, like Shruti Charan, who has been dining there for over seven years. “I am conscious about the quality of produce and the source of dairy I consume, and so for me, The Farm ticks all the right boxes. Their menu is vast and well thought out, and I love the earthy charm of the place”. .

Chaitali Patel is a freelance writer based in Dubai. She’s always on the lookout for interesting stories about people or places. Her words have appeared in several international and Indian publications. Follow her on Instagram

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